Road to Skin Recovery - Part I

After dealing with breakouts and bad skin for the better part of the past 10 years (lucky me, I get to have teen AND adult acne!), I’ve now gone through a skincare and diet overhaul for the past 3-4 months, and am enjoying better skin that I ever have. It's miraculous! Relative to what I used to see in the mirror last October, my skin has completely transformed, and so I wanted to share what I've been doing in hopes that maybe somebody else could benefit from this. There's a lot of information to take in, so I'll break this up into two posts. Keep in mind also that although what happened to me seems sudden, it was NOT a quick fix. It took months of trial and error, endless hours of research and discipline. The solution that's worked for me will be a long-term process, so if you're still struggling, keep being consistent and don't lose hope!

Background
My skin was manageable for the most part during college, but began to worsen after moving cross country and starting a new job with long hours and lack of sleep. Throw in a bunch of other stress factors (worsening economy, job insecurity, long distance relationship) and bam! Skin reaches the worst condition it’s ever been in, culminating in large, painful cystic breakouts (gross, I know). It seriously depressed me and killed my social life since I refused to go out seeing anyone. Determined, I tried everything and spent a lot of money on promised solutions – facials, masks, antibiotics, medical-strength ointments, but it only left me with a reddened face that tingled from too much chemicals. In other words, fail. Anyone who suffers adult acne knows what a terrible cycle it is; the worse your skin looks, the more desperate you become to try any and all solutions, but it only leads to more irritation and breakouts. I’m not saying the things I tried were completely ineffective, but they didn’t clear me up at and I continued to wallow.

Skincare
Since I’d tried expensive products with no success, I thought, “What’s there to lose? Why not go the other route and simplify my skincare routine with only a few elements?” When it comes to skincare, sometimes less is more, so I did some research and found acne.org, a community of skin sufferers (..hmm, that sounds more bleak than it really is) created by Dan Kern, a regular guy who has endured years of acne and finally found an answer that worked for him and countless others.

His mantra is streamlined and simple: 1) wash face with a gentle cleanser, 2) apply lots of benzoyl peroxide, and 3) moisturize. The key success factor in those steps rests in the application technique – GENTLY GENTLY GENTLY. Along with allowing time in between steps for skin to dry and absorb the products, being supremely gentle was the most important factor to keep in mind. Acne sufferers have sensitive skin, contrary to popular belief, and should leave skin as untouched as possible. So, the number one thing to remember is to decrease irritation. This remains true for all steps of any skincare routine.

Cleanser – the fewer the ingredients, the better. Avoid chemicals with long names. I really like Purpose, and plan to purchase another bottle when my current one runs out. It is ultra mild, foams nicely, and still gives me a clean sensation that doesn't strip it dry. Every other day, I also exfoliate with a baby brush to get rid of dead skin, and am now transitioning to my Clarisonic for even cleaner skin. Another alternative is to use Cetaphil, but make sure the cleanser doesn’t have active acne fighting ingredients in it (like salicylic acid or BP).

A quick note about makeup: I don't use a separate makeup remover, but will just wash my face twice with Purpose if I wore foundation or a lot of concealer that day. Also I feel that the physical exfoliation I do with either the babybrush or Clarisonic helps to remove any leftover remnants.

Benzoyl Peroxide - Dan’s regimen is centered around benzoyl peroxide, which oxidizes the skin so that bacteria isn’t allowed to grow. It kills existing pimples and also prevents new ones from popping up. Everyday, twice a day, for the past 3-4 months, I diligently applied a LOT of BP (go here to learn more about the regimen) and I’ve seen a decrease in the size and scale of all my breakouts. Neutrogena On-the-Spot is an over-the-counter option, but it’s pricey for the size you receive.

Moisturizer – Even oily skin needs moisturizer! Otherwise, skin becomes zapped dry from excessive acne products, and thus overproduces oil to compensate. Ironic, since that’s the last thing we oily folk need! I’ve been using Dan Kern’s moisturizer along with a few drops of jojoba oil (to fight the flakies), but will probably look for another brand when I finish my bottle.

Other products I’ve introduced into my system:
AHA – After 1.5 months (that’s how long it should take your skin to get accustomed to BP), I started incorporating AHA, a chemically exfoliating glycolic acid. Its purpose is to shed the outermost layers of skin, expedite the turnover of new cells, and eventually reduce dark scars and pigmentation. What it’s really improved dramatically for me is the texture of my skin. I used to have a lot of pitted scars on my cheeks, but AHA has smoothed them out so it’s flat to the touch, and also easier to apply makeup. AHA is also my product of the future – I would keep using this to fade out scars and red marks.

Jojoba Oil – Crucial during NY winters, jojoba oil provides more moisture than regular lotion. It prevents skin from flaking off and eases application of mineral or liquid foundation (but try not to use that much makeup while your skin is recovering!
Sunscreen – Using BP and AHA increases sensitivity of skin, so it’s important to protect it with a good sunscreen. EVERY. SINGLE. DAY. Sunscreen is a MUST! I like Anthelios by La Roche Posay. Make sure to choose one that's oil-free and limits excessive chemicals.

Exfoliation – This is a tricky step, since you have to balance scrubbing/exfoliation while still being sensitive to skin (harhar... but really, you must be super gentle in the first few weeks of the regimen). I bought a Red Cross brand baby brush (if it’s good for an infant, it’s good enough for me right??) and timidly brush a few strokes on my cheeks and forehead every other day. It helps flakes come off easier and avoid dry, scaly looking skin. Now that it’s been 3+ months with the routine, I’m experimenting again with my Clarisonic, which I bought awhile ago but stopped using when my skin worsened (didn't think the whirring and noise would be good for the breakouts). Since acne.org offers large-sized bottles at economical prices, I bought most of the above products from acne.org, which is great since they last long enough to see results! Hopefully the magic continues, but will keep you all posted.

More broadly speaking, skincare isn't just about the products you slather on your face. You need to pay attention to all aspects of anything that comes into contact with the sensitive areas of skin. For example, 1) changing your pillowcase every few days (not just weeks!) so oil doesn't accumulate on its surface and clog pores, 2) carefully washing out shampoo and conditioner so that it rinses clean away from your face, 3) any cosmetics to hide blemishes, 4) not touching your face during the day, including resting chin on hands, cupping sides of face with palms, etc. It sounds OCD, but it's worth it in the long run.

...part 2 about diet, supplements, exercise to continue..!